The bedraggled Raleigh

A bound-for-the-dumpster Raleigh Sports gets a new lease on life.

I've had an urge to take experience a classic British three-speed for awhile now. The laid-back geometry, relaxed, upright ride and smooth internally-geared hubs just speak to me.

In the time of COVID, even ragged projects seem to be fetching an awful lot of money, and since I already had too many projects going anyway, I figured that would have to just remain a daydream for awhile.

The Raleigh Sports, as found.
The Raleigh Sports, as found.

And then this Raleigh turned up, literally asking to be picked up from the curb. Who could resist a free Raleigh Sports? So, after taking just enough time to be sure it was mostly all there, I drug it home.

And I quickly discovered there were reasons it was free. It was really in pretty rough shape. I expected the tires to be flat, and for it to be grimy. Honestly for free, I didn't expect much, but figured even if it was a total bust I could just tuck the Sturmey-Archer three-speed hub away for some future project.

Even so, I really didn't know what I was getting myself into.

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The battered chainguard appeared to be held on mostly with grime, and that three-speed cable may be past its prime. The decal style places it somewhere in the mid-70s, probably.
The battered chainguard appeared to be held on mostly with grime, and that three-speed cable may be past its prime. The decal style places it somewhere in the mid-70s, probably.
The rear fender is similarly battered and rusty.
The rear fender is similarly battered and rusty.
Lots of surface rust and grime.
Lots of surface rust and grime.
So filthy. So very, very filthy.
So filthy. So very, very filthy.
I think I should be seeing a spoke here. Amazingly, the Raleigh steel rim was still surprisingly true.
I think I should be seeing a spoke here. Amazingly, the Raleigh steel rim was still surprisingly true.
The original Raleigh pedals should clean up well. They were really built to last.
The original Raleigh pedals should clean up well. They were really built to last.
All the smart parts are put in bins and tagged as needed to keep track of them. Yes, there are a lot of loose bearings in a Raleigh headset.
All the smart parts are put in bins and tagged as needed to keep track of them. Yes, there are a lot of loose bearings in a Raleigh headset.
Two days with a heavy-duty clamp and penetrating oil, and still, one of the cotter pins would not budge.
Two days with a heavy-duty clamp and penetrating oil, and still, one of the cotter pins would not budge.
Eventually I had to resort to drilling it out. Which was as terrible as you might imagine.
Eventually I had to resort to drilling it out. Which was as terrible as you might imagine.
When I finally got the bottom bracket apart, I found the remains of a whole colony of approximately ball-bearing-sized insects in there.
When I finally got the bottom bracket apart, I found the remains of a whole colony of approximately ball-bearing-sized insects in there.

Once it was in the shop getting disassembled, I got to learn a few quirks of old Raleighs:

Reassembly

The Raleigh Sports frame, polished up.
The Raleigh Sports frame, polished up.

The Raleigh had clearly been left outside, unloved, for a long time. There was a thick layer of grime and tree sap that had sun-baked deep into the paint. Cleaning it was a multistep process:

  1. Household multi-purpose cleaner and a blue non-scratch scrubbing pad to get the surface grime off.
  2. Turtle Wax Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound to try to cut the paint back to the original Lemon Yellow as much as possible. This was only somewhat successful.
  3. Turtle Wax polishing compound to bring some shine back to the paint.

In the end, the paint is still pretty chipped and scraped, but it's yellow again, and shiny, and the patina does have appeal.

The fenders went through the same process, although they had an extra step of bending and hammering the metal back into some semblance of shape. I am not a metalworker by any means, but anyone with a little care can do some basic things to make the metal at least a bit more presentable. One of these days I'll get myself a proper set of metalworking hammers and dollies.

For the chrome parts, I sprayed a penetrating oil and scrubbed with fine steel wool. That's always worked well for me. Once the grime and surface rust was gone, Mother's metal polish brought back the shine.

The 'heron' chainring was in pretty rough shape.
The 'heron' chainring was in pretty rough shape.
But it cleaned up surprisingly well.
But it cleaned up surprisingly well.
The brakes, as found.
The brakes, as found.
And after cleaning, ready for reassembly.
And after cleaning, ready for reassembly.
The brakes back on the bike, along with the revived front fender.
The brakes back on the bike, along with the revived front fender.
Here you can see the in-process front fender alongside the as-found rear fender and chainguard. The chainguard may be a lost cause.
Here you can see the in-process front fender alongside the as-found rear fender and chainguard. The chainguard may be a lost cause.

The rear wheel - spoke replacement, tensioning and trueing.

The rear wheel was a special challenge, since it was missing a spoke. After measuring carefully I ordered heavy-duty spokes and a spoke wrench. Neither is anything fancy, but they were more than adequate for the task at hand.

I knew most of the spokes were under-tensioned, but had to do some research on how to easily check the tension. I was pretty happy when I learned you can "tune" spokes to notes on the scale. With that knowledge in hand, I grabbed a Snark tuner and an Irwin Quick Grip,and went to town. The Snark was clipped it to the seatstay to easily see the note the spoke was ringing out, while the Quick Grip accurately held the newly polished brake calipers in position.

Trueing the wheel, home-style.
Trueing the wheel, home-style.

I can't claim the end results are pro-level, but I can't complain, either. The rim stays off the calipers and is pretty darn close to straight. Not bad for a first timer. It doesn't hurt that those heavy steel Raleigh wheels are pretty forgiving.

Final steps

With the wheel straightened out, the rest of the rebuild was largely replacing the wear-item parts on it, including a new KMC single-speed chain, some faux-leather grips, new yellow brake and shifter cables and inexpensive brake pads.

I also had to buy new cotter pins to replace the ones I destroyed in the removal process.

And with that, it was done.

The finished product.
The finished product.

Truth be told, the frame is way too big for me and I'll probably end up selling it, letting it go to a new home and fund the next project. But for now, I'm enjoying it as it is. I call it "Lemon".

August 2020: Goodbye, Raleigh

The completed Raleigh .
The completed Raleigh .

I really enjoyed rebuilding the Raleigh Sports and learning so much more of the lore of these fascinating bikes and their indestructible three-speed hubs (thank you Sheldon Brown!) I really liked riding it around, too. The upright position, the smoothness of the internal gearing, the character of it, all that appealed. I found it thoroughly charming and enjoyed almost every minute of the restoration (except those cotter pins), especially since this particular example was so close to the brink before I brought it back.

But really, it's quite a bit too big for me, and I can't keep them all. So on the market it went. And as it turned out it went to a very nice young lady who's already an avid rider, but wanted something fun and funky for around town. The lemon yellow Raleigh seems to fill the bill perfectly, so I think it went to a good home. I hope it's good to her for a long time. Raleigh sure built them to last.

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